2004/11/24

Stock, by Thomas Keller


By JULIETTE ROSSANT

Thomas KellerThomas Keller is taking one step further into Super Chefdom with his French Laundry chicken stock. In Wednesday's New York Times, Florence Fabricant recommended the new stock for its lightness and balance.

No other super chef I know of has ventured into the stock area. Most are crowded into seasonings, sauces and pastas and of course, frozen pizza.

Many people, however, can churn out chicken stock: it's stocks such as veal and rabbit that I crave -- because they are harder to make. Even turkey stock would have been more interesting -- and just in time for Thanksgiving tomorrow.

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