Restaurant Michael Mina Rocks

By JULIETTE ROSSANT Recently, I got my wish and was able to stop by Restaurant Michael Mina at the Westin St. Francis Hotel on Union Square in San Francisco to say hello to Michael Mina and, well, perhaps taste a dish or two. I had last sampled Mina's cuisine in Las Vegas at Nob Hill, where a mashed potato wagon served numerous kinds of richly flavored spuds. Michael loves to play with one ingredient served many ways, and at this new restaurant he has let his imagination run even wilder than before. At 5:00 p.m. the restaurant and bar were packed, and I and guest Elizabeth Falkner of Citizen Cake were seated at a cocktail table for what I thought would be just a bite. Under the high ceilings and between massive columns I crouched over an array of decadence. The first plate arrived: morsels of lobster done six ways, three hot on white plates, three cold in little white bowls, all on a white porcelain, rectangular plate. I meant to share, but the cold bites were so tiny and delicious... Lobster was followed by scallops six ways, and then quail, and then six foie gras, and then six sole and six bass, and finally six Kobe Beef and six CK Lamb. How was it possible, we wondered, that one small batch of truffled French Fries could be served hot along with five other tiny lamb dishes? Had Michael installed a kitchen of tiny pots and tiny French Fry machines? Does he have an army of chefs in the kitchen to orchestrate such a marvel? Each burst of flavor in each bite left one longing for more and eager to try the next. There were hints of violet in one dish. A sprinkling of sea salt enlivened another, while the colors of fruits danced on the white plate, almost singing out to the foie gras. On one side were cold bites of foie gras terrine, and on the other were matching hot bites of seared foie gras in various sauces. That "bite" had turned into 40 or 50 bites. It was like walking through a museum of masterpieces from a stamp collection. Previous articles: Merry Christmas, Michael Mina Restaurant Michael Mina Resurfaces World AIDS Day I: Michael Mina Michael Mina Meets SF Unions Maturely Agassi's Star Palate: Michael Mina The Rise of Restaurant Michael Mina