White House CHEFGATE: Richard Hamilton's Story

By JULIETTE ROSSANT [NB: Read superchefblog's August 12 prediction for Cris Comerford -- The Editor -- August 14, 2005.] For months, Richard Hamilton has been a front runner for the job of White House Executive Chef (see previous articles, starting with latest). Until recently, Richard was executive chef at The Spiced Pear in The Chanler Hotel in Newport, Rhode Island. Richard hails from Oklahoma but trained at the Ritz-Escoffier Ecole du Gastronomie and Le Cordon Bleu culinary academy in France -- worked at the Ritz Paris, trained with Alain Ducasse, Guy Savoy, and Joel Robuchon, was sous chef at the Ritz Carlton Laguna Nigel, ran a major company catering to the stars out of Nashville, headed Magnolia's there, and headed up the kitchens of the Dunmore Beach Club on Harbour Island, Bahamas, and the Spiced Pear. Richard never applied for the White House job: they called him. He went for a first interview in late February this year. He told superchefblog: It was a surreal day. It was snowing, and I had to walk five blocks to the White House. By the time I got there, I was covered with snow. It was surreal to see the White House lawn covered in snow. Gary Walters [the chief usher] gave me some towels to dry off, and they brought me into the pantry for a cup of tea. He was very gracious and genuine. The one hour interview with Mr. Walters and Mrs. Bush's new social secretary, Lea Berman, questioned Richard about his philosophy of cuisine, his experience, and his management style. Then they answered some of his unspoken questions: They go out after a chef with press and notoriety, and they ask you if you are willing to give it up. At some level you are. It's an honor. There are few White House Chefs in history; not too many people can do it. You are a piece of history -- not just Culinary History but History -- for maybe three or maybe 20 years. It's incredible -- or could be. "Could be" turned into "could be longer." Richard returned to his restaurant and waited. The first follow-up action pretty much killed his job at the Spiced Pear: Mrs. Bush sent a group of her friends to his restaurant to try the food. Someone in the White House party spilled the beans that Richard was on the shortlist for the White House job, and the restaurant management immediately started leaving Richard out of restaurant publicity, among other things. "The trust declines. The comfort wears off" when a boss finds out you're talking to others about taking another job. Instead of waiting for others to make a move, he quit the Spiced Pear and started consulting. In early May, the White House summoned Richard back to cook three meals. He prepared a dinner for 12, a lunch for 12, and a cocktail for 40. Richard described the visit to superchefblog: Lunch was interesting. All of Mrs. Bush's friend were there. One woman was adamant that no chef should be in the White House who wasn't from Texas. She trashed everything savagely. That led Mrs. Bush to think she needed to look again. News got out about the tryouts (see previous article), but Richard says he was the one of only two chefs to remain on the shortlist (the other was Texas-based Chris Ward -- see previous article). In June-July, the White House held a second round of cooking. (That's Richard's menu which superchefblog reported last month -- see previous article). Whereas during the first test, everyone involved had been new, this time Richard had just a little experience under his belt -- and that was all he needed. He and kitchen staff clicked. The President and the Mrs. Bush were gracious and kind. The Bushes gave Richard a standing ovation after the dinner, and the President declared that it was one of the best meals he had ever eaten. On the following day at lunch, one of the Bush daughters called him a "culinary genius." His own instincts meshed with what the Usher's office (in charge of the selection process) told him: he was a front runner. "The woman who had wanted a Texan chef wasn't at the second luncheon," Richard explained to superchefblog. And "if the search is about Texas chef, let's admit it." Otherwise, "if it is about culinary skills representing the country -- cooking all the different cuisines that are served -- let's make it about that." By this time, half a year had slipped by, and superchefblog noted in comparison how quickly the Supreme Court justice search had concluded -- see previous article.) Richard was asked for complete discretion and has kept to it until now -- unlike others (see previous article) -- but yesterday The New York Times contacted him to confirm details about his candidacy. The White House kitchen has been out of Washington politics up to this point, but from the questions asked of him, it was clear to Richard that as of yesterday someone very close to the decision-making process has been talking to the press -- very likely a White House leak. Further, some facts related to him by the NYT were wrong -- chief among them, the NYT related to him that, according to their sources, Richard was out of the running, chiefly because he had presented a list of demands to the White House. Richard told superchefblog that the only "demand" he had expressed was a concern -- that he be told with enough time for him to have his child enrolled in a local school. Otherwise, he has kept himself quite busy but in a holding pattern, unable to go elsewhere if he wants to serve the President -- and he does want to serve (assuming this is their wish as well). So, on behalf of all those currently on the White House shortlist for executive chef, superchefblog asked last month: what is taking so long? Superchefblog has run a nationwide online readers' poll to suggest (women) chef candidates and then recommended that readers "Tell Laura Bush." Superchefblog deemed this the ideal time to hire the first woman chef: now that issue seems to be run over roughshod by another issue. Has the position of executive chef become embroiled in politics: is it now a political appointment? If that were the case, superchefblog understands that Richard Hamilton has very strong Republican support (as one might expect would be needed for this Administration) -- so that can't the problem. And Richard's credentials (to say nothing of his food) are to die for -- the guy isn't even 40, and look whom he's cook for and where he's cooked -- not to mention Republican support. Clearly, here is another gentleman of the kitchen blade: what is the White House holding out for? When the river runs still here in Washington, most people start to suspect something deep is running underneath (or the waters start to stink like a Venetian canal -- take your pick)... Are we on the cusp of [gulp] Chefgate? If so, Heaven help the working chef! 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