Washoku: Elizabeth Andoh

By JULIETTE ROSSANT Washoku: Recipes from the Japanese Kitchen (Ten Speed Press 2005) makes an easily accessible presentation of both concept and recipes. Author Elizabeth Andoh writes of this " 'harmony of food,' as a way of thinking about what we eat and how it can nourish us. The term describes both a culinary philosophy and the simple, nutritionally balanced food prepared with that spirit" (p. 1). Look at the cover photograph (above): the meal depicted is no accident. A wooden tray with five dishes and wood chopsticks sits on a wooden board or table, with dishes of Miso Marinated Broiled Fish (p. 229), Mixed Grains (p. 139), Citrus Pickled Chinese Cabbage (p. 218) topped with shredded red garnish, Soya Braised Hijiki and Carrots (p. 187), and Miso Soup with Enoki Mushrooms (p.118) in a cup. "This sample washoku menu incorporates vibrant and soft hues, textured and smoothed foods, and delicate and assertive flavors" (p. 3) -- the five principles of Washoku meal construction. In Washoklu, Elizabeth teaches how to learn Japanese cooking correctly from the very first meal. And photographer Leigh Beisch captures in photography the balance of colors, shapes, and textures, elegant yet understated and accessible. You can imagine eating these dishes for dinner and walking away feeling both satisfied and refreshed. Her skills should come as small wonder, given her background. Elizabeth studied at the Yanagihara Kinsaryu School of Traditional Japanese Cuisine (Tokyo) and is now a writer, lecturer, and a business consultant who specializes in Japanese food and culture. She covers Japan for Gourmet Magazine and has also written for the New York Times Travel section. With such a background, Elizabeth is well able to explain philosophy of Washoku as something un-foreign and understandable for people from Western schools of cooking and recipes. In fact, at times her introduction sounds like a cookbook about New American cooking: Selecting ingredients at their peak of seasonal flavor, choosing locally available foods from both the land and the sea, appealing to and engaging all the senses, using a collage of color, employing a variety of food preparations, and assembling an assortment of flavors – a washoku approach to cooking gives the creative and contemplative cook an opportunity to satisfy his or her own aesthetic hunger while providing sustenance and sensory pleasure to others. (p. 3) The book is broken down into a chapter on the Washoku Pantry (p. 10), an excellent introduction to the different kinds of tufu, sea weed and other ingredients, followed by In the Washoku Kitchen (p. 66) which goes over methods such as Draining, Pressing and Straining (p. 77) -- in this case for tofu and miso. There is a chapter of recipes for Stocks, Sauces, and Other Condiments (p. 90). Thereafter follow recipes. Fisherman’s Broth (p. 123-4) yields a rich broth made from a combination of fish heads, miso, and sake. Buckwheat Noodle Roll (p. 174-6) creates essentially a sushi roll stuffed with Soba noodles inside crisp Nori. It is complicated to get the noodles right, but well worth the trouble. Soy-Simmered Kabocha Squash with Red Beans (pp. 206-8) is perfect for winter months, when rich orange Kabocha or even Butternut squash or Sweet Potatoes are available. This dish is rich in vitamins and minerals, hearty and sweet at the same time. Elizabeth gives recipes for many kinds of dumplings and stuffed tofu as well as simpler dishes like Broiled Tofu with Flavored Miso (p. 281) which calls for three different kinds of Miso: Leek Miso (p. 77), Citrusy Miso (p. 102), and Pungent Red Miso Sauce (p. 101). This is a cookbook to start reading and cooking from the beginning, to indulge in making each dish, right through to the end -– and then happily starting all over again. Articles by Elizabeth Andoh: New York Times Travel section Magajin Metropolis Daily Yomiuri Tokyo Food Page Previous articles: [complete Cookbook Reviews] Technorati Tags: superchefblog, Juliette Rossant, super chef, celebrities, chefs, food, restaurants, cooking, branding, cuisine, cookbooks --> subscribe to superchefblog --> back to superchefblog