2006/07/31

Michael Ruhlman Frumps Wikipedia

By JULIETTE ROSSANT

Michael Ruhlman with Ming Tsai and Todd English in Cooking Under Fire You might think that an author with 11 books under the belt would not have much to gripe about.

Recently, however, Michael Ruhlman has been griping aloud about Celebrity Chefs and Wikipedia-- and managed to work Superchefblog into the mix.

In an article entitled "The Meaning of Celebrity," he frumps:
What exactly are the criteria for being a celebrity chef? Here’s the wikipedia definition (it’s heavily reliant on the work of Juliette Rossant, citing her -- she even has her own wikipedia page; sadly I do not — as well as her book called Superchef [sic] and her blog of that name… interesting… I wonder why it doesn’t cite, say, the work of Page and Dornenberg who wrote Becoming a Chef, the first book that meaningfully addressed chefs as they moved into the realm of celebrity… hmmm, a bit of a marketing effort from the camp of Ms. Rossant?).
He gripes about the inclusion of "super chefs" in Wikipedia, about the author listing, and about mention of this online magazine.

Don't get so worked up, Michael. Here's some constructive advice:
  • On the bright side, with just a little original contribution of your own, you too might get your piece of turf in Wikipedia.

  • You can now read intelligently about Wikipedia and how it works in newly published articles in The New Yorker and Atlantic Monthly.

  • The French Laundry Cookbook, by Thomas Keller Meanwhile, why gripe, when your name is on what is arguably the best cookbook of the past decade, Thomas Keller's masterpiece The French Laundy Cookbook?

  • Besides, you've got a 12th book coming out this fall. (OK, so it's a rehash of work with Thomas Keller: it's still another notch in your belt.)
Bottom line is that life just isn't that bad for you.

Meantime, why not go back and take another look at the Introduction to Super Chef (available online in Fast Magazine)? No disrespect to Page and Dornenberg, but people have become chefs for a long time now. Even Escoffier (if not Careme) was something of a celebrity chef. What is new in the field are "super chefs."

2 Brothers + NASCAR + Mario Batali triumvirate

Take Mario Batali as an example. He isn't hot these days because of Media and ensuant Celebrity: he's been on the Food Network for years. It's his recent business deals with partners like NASCAR that are getting him into mass media print -- Forbes, TIME, Newsweek, and Life (see previous articles) -- as well as the expansion of his restaurant empire outside of New York. That's where the action is. Mario became a chef a long time ago: what is exciting is that Mario is about to become a super chef.

(Disclaimer: Michael used to consult on occasion with Superchefblog for some of his articles, particularly on the topic of "chef branding." He wrote, "[I] have been reading your book Super Chef [sic], which is fascinating, am just through the English section." He even cited Super Chef and quoted the book's author for at least one article in Gulf Connoisseur [never seen the article]. Then, Superchefblog reviewed Cooking Under Fire (see previous article). He emailed to contend with the review in a pleasant exchange which ended abruptly in a final email that opened like this: "OK, Shithead..." What to do? Well, as any writer knows, you can please them all, nor even some all of the time.)

Related news:
New Yorker

Previous articles:
Mario Batali on Superchefblog
Cooking Under Fire: Already Over Done?
[Citations]

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2 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

sounds like Ruhlman is just not emotionally ready to write in the Blogosphere. he's still back at Email and Blogging basics like flaming people rather than saying something constructive. then again, as a print-based writer, maybe he just needs an editor and should not self-publish.

10:57 AM, July 31, 2006  
Anonymous ruhlman said...

Juliette,

What bothers me about the Wikipedia business is how the line between information and self-promotion is increasingly blurred on the internet. It's not a gripe as you say. I made light of it in my post, but I think it's a serious issue.

I like your blog and have nothing against it, or you, or self-promotion for that matter. It's hard to make a living as a writer.

And I'm sorry if you took offence at the shithead remark. I assure you it was uttered more out of playfulness than anger. If I'd been mad I'd have called you asshole, or not have responded at all. And sorry I got the name of your book wrong in my post. will try to be more careful in the future.

11:36 AM, August 03, 2006  

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