Gifford & Baer-Sinnott: The Oldways Table

By ALEXANDRA GREELEY (special to Super Chef) If you are going green-and even if you are still undecided about your color-you will find that the "must-read" book of the fall is The Oldways Table: Essays & Recipes from the Culinary Think Tank (Ten Speed Press 2007) by two dedicated, conservation-minded foodies, K. Dun Gifford and Sara Baer-Sinnott. Founders of the decades-old "save the earth and our foodways" movement known as "Oldways," the pair probably should take at least some credit for waking up Americans to the health dangers-and total blandness-of factory-manipulated food. Gifford writes in the preface: Without a determined effort to educate families-parents and children-about all of what we stand to lose in a techno-food future, we'll keep on going down the slippery slope to factory food and artificial flavors and tastes, and starve ourselves of the micronutrients we need.(p. ix) To which anyone who shops at the increasingly popular neighborhood farmers' markets would say, "Amen." If you have been watching out over the years, you may already know that the Oldways organization has been hammering home the idea that, without discarding refrigerators, microwaves, and electrical gadgets, Americans can adapt the sound eating practices of past generations-that is, consuming farm-fresh, local, and unprocessed foods-into the hectic everyday modern world. The authors are not restricting folks to slaughtering their own meats nor picking their own grains, nor even insisting on cooking Grandma's way. What they do stress is that we all benefit by cooking wholesome foods-and by sitting down to eat them leisurely and harmoniously, we can enjoy their flavors and textures. To make that point, Gifford wonders about a hypothetical future Thanksgiving meal-the traditional dinner that generates tempting aromas, savory courses, and messy kitchens-which has been "precooked in a microwavable freezer pack." No mess, and probably, no flavor. And, the authors insist, by being mindful of certain food groups while eschewing others, you can structure a better-for-you diet. Take the Mediterranean diet pyramid, which, by the way, Gifford and Baer-Sinnott, in conjunction with numerous nutritionists and health professionals, promoted more than a decade ago. An über-healthful plan, it takes the traditional Mediterranean basics such as whole grains, fruits, vegetables, legumes, and olive oil, and highlights these groups as among the best foods for maintaining weight and preserving sound health. Besides, as the authors point it, it's "glorious food, distinguished by bold flavors and simplicity of preparation." Besides learning about the history and background of this "green" movement, what makes reading the book so compelling are the essays-some reminiscent of childhood tastes and ways of eating, others with basic information about a certain ingredient-written by some of America's most revered food writers and chefs. For example, Steve Petusevsky-known as "Chef Steve" nationally-writes a charming discourse on the best ways to select, cook, and eat artichokes. Marian Morash, of the Victory Garden Cookbook and TV series by the same name, tells how she and her TV producer husband Russ dig for and steam clams on Nantucket. And Lynne Rossetto Kasper describes how the traditional foods-aceto balsamico, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, and prosciutto di Parma-of Italy's Emilia-Romagna must withstand the rigors of the EU's food laws. And the recipes! Within minutes, you'll skip past the essays to the heart and soul of the book: the recipes, a mix of old- and new-fashioned fare that will inspire a quick dash to the kitchen. How about starting the meal with Gifford's own Scallop Seviche, followed by Julia Della Croce's Grilled Steak From Florence accompanied by Lidia Bastianich's and the Chefettes' Chicory and White Bean Salad. And for dessert? Melissa Clark's Baba Limoncello With Lemon Cream. So much food, so many choices, so much delectable eating. Hats off to Gifford and Baer-Sinnott for starting Oldways in the first place, then for compiling the essays and recipes: The Oldways Table is THE one book that should become everyone's kitchen Bible. Previous articles: Modern Indian Cooking: Khanna and Nayak [Cook Books - complete] Technorati Tags: superchefblog, Juliette Rossant, super chef, celebrities, chefs, food, restaurants, cooking, branding, cuisine, blogging, food blogging --> back to Super Chef