Anthos: All In

By JULIETTE ROSSANT Michael Psilakis understands pickles. In fact, the small bowl of mixed pickles that comes with his lamb burger at Anthos are worth a trip across town -- or farther -- for lunch in mid-town or when you are in the mood for bold Greek-inspired food. The restaurant is just the place to relax and put your appetite in the hands of a fine chef. But back to those pickles-- Psilakis pickles with variety: cucumbers with sumac and champagne vinegar, cauliflower and fennel with ouzo, celery with saffron and coriander, and onions with hibiscus and oregano. The ancient Spice Route (Silk Road) ran from China to the Eastern Mediterranean: maybe Psilakis was on the receiving end in Greece at some point? Such are reflections that come to mind with his lamb burger dish alone. The burger itself is assertive, topped with arugula and feta dressing. The pickles stand up to the taste of the lamb yet stand on their own. Of course, this chef is better known for his ability with seafood, starting with the delicate tasting of crudo on a long plate of five takes on raw fish. The fish are intensely fresh, each topped with a different Mediterranean flavor, from yellow tail tuna with fennel pollen to tuna with with lemon and mastic oil. Super Chef especially liked the fluke with shredded, crispy, tangy grapevine leaves. The chef also has a deft hand with meat, including his take on hilopites, tender rabbit on wide noodle. It is glorious and rich, yet the portion is small enough to leave room for dessert. Our favorite was a baklava tasting. It included a small cube of pistachio baklava. Following came a triangle pastry filled with a light almond cream, atop which floated almond foam. Then came a round of walnut cake, topped with cinnamon ice cream. Cinnamon asserted itself throughout and bound the three together. This intepretation rings true, for the main difference between Greek and other baklavas is the Greek use of cinammon. The second dessert Super Chef was bougatsa, a length of goat cheese cake (replacing the traditional semolina pudding) with a crunchy topping and crisp leaves of pastry. It is smooth, rich, and tempting. Restaurateur Donatella Arpaia is planning two new restaurants in 2008 with Michael Psalalikis. Super Chef resolves to eat at all her restaurants as a New Year’s resolution for 2008. Related news: New York Times, New York Post, New York Magazine, Wine Spectator, Bloomberg, Esquire, Restaurant Report, New York Times Previous articles: Let Gilt Lead Your New Year Pleasures The Rise of Restaurant Michael Mina Mother's Day: Perry's New Year's Resolution: Eat Well, Help Others Technorati Tags: superchefblog, Juliette Rossant, super chef, celebrities, chefs, food, restaurants, cooking, branding, cuisine, blogging, food blogging --> back to Super Chef