George Washington Story: Hercules the Slave Chef

By JULIETTE ROSSANT At the Freedom Theatre today plans will be unveiled for a memorial design by Kelly/Maiello Architects & Planners for the President's House excavated on Independence Mall in Philadelphia last summer. Many Americans may find a new story to add to the George Washington legends: Hercules, the slave chef. The new glass structure will cover the excavation of the President's House, an 18th century mansion where George Washington and and his sucessor, John Adams lived from 1790-1800. John Adams did not keep slaves, but the Virginian Washington kept at least nine in the house and scores more at his home at Mount Vernon. The excavation revealed the stony arc of a great bow window designed by Washington and, just a few feet away, foundations of an underground passageway used by servants and slaves, and of the kitchen presided over by Washington's enslaved chef, Hercules. Hercules headed up the president's kitchen for seven years until he escaped and was never found again. He probably knew Thomas Jefferson's chef James Hemings who trained in France under caterer Monsieur Combeaux and continued with a pastry chef in the household of the Prince de Conde. Hemings was the full brother of Sally Hemings, rumored to be Thomas Jefferson's mistress. Hemings was granted his freedom by Jefferson. African American chefs and cooks continued to work at the White House through to Lyndon Johson but none were ever granted the title of White House Executive Chef. Super Chef discovered that Hercules shared some qualities with super chefs: Hercules' skills and energies went far beyond mere cooking. He helped manage Washington's kitchen, which at one point contained a German cook, Jacob Jonus, and two French cooks, Peter Gilling and a man named Lamuir. He managed with a high regard for propriety, performance and pomp. "Under [Hercules'] iron discipline, woe to his underlings if speck or spot could be discovered on the table ... or if the utensils did not shine like polished silver. ... His underlings flew in all directions to execute his orders, while he, the great master-spirit, seemed to possess the power of ubiquity, and to be everywhere at the same moment," one observer wrote. For more on Hercules and his successors, start with Sharron Wilkins' article "The President's Kitchen: African American Cooks in the White House." Press Releases: President's House in Philadelphia GoPhila Related news: Smithsonian Magazine, Philadelphia Inquirer, Philadelphia Inquirer, Guardian, Philadelphia Inquirer Related links: Museo Thyssen-Bornmisza: Hercules Portrait President's House in Philadelphia: Slaves President's House in Philadelphia: Slavery by the Numbers University of Virginia: George Washington Papers: Slave Lists Philadelphia Government History News Network National Gallery of Art: Gilbert Stuart U.S. Senate - Paintings - George Washington - Gilbert Stuart White House Historical Association - President's House, Philadelphia Society for American Archaeology - African American and African Diaspora Archaeology Assumption College Previous articles: Marcus Samuelsson: Starbucks Juliette Rossant in Heart & Soul Augustus Jackson: African-American White House Chef [White House Woman Chef - complete] Technorati Tags: superchefblog, Juliette Rossant, super chef, celebrities, chefs, food, restaurants, cooking, branding, cuisine, blogging, food blogging --> back to Super Chef