Passover: Arthur Schwartz's Jewish Home Cooking

By JULIETTE ROSSANT If Passover is all about tradition – and for foodies, mostly traditional food – then Arthur Schwartz's Jewish Home Cooking: Yiddish Recipes Revisited (Ten Speed Press 2008) arrives with perfect timing. Arthur Schwartz is an expert of just this kind Yiddish cookery. The crisp, golden potato latkes (pp. 78-79) on the cover are enticing (even if they are traditionally for Chanukah) The traditional foods of the Ashkenazim has a good place at the contemporary table – with a lessening of the schmaltz here; a tweak there; a little makeover never hurt anyone. With a green vegetable or two alongside the braised brisket or the sweet-and-sour flanken or the potted meatballs, plus a piece of potato kugel, it all of a sudden looks pretty modern, a contemporary meal. (p. ix) Schwartz's knowledge of Yiddish and contemporary food means he can compare Italian beef cheeks stuffed ravioli to a traditional cholent stew. The idea is to reassess Yiddish food and bring out its strengths, while re-adjusting for excesses. The richness of most cuisines can be judged by the variety of their appetizers –their mezes or tapas – and that's true of Arthur's chapter on Appetizers (p. 1) From extensive recipe note for Schmaltz (p. 9) The aroma of chicken fat rendering on the stove, or anything being cooked in chicken fat, is one of those sensory memories of cuddly Jewish grandmas. It was the most important cooking fat in the old-time Jewish kitchens, and it is another defining flavor in the Yiddish kitchen. (p. 9) You'll need the schmaltz for plenty of recipes like Chopped Liver (p. 11) along with the griebenes (cracklings) and darkly caramelized onions that are strained out to rendered fat. The Appetizer chapter also has great recipes for 2nd Avenue Deli's Health Salad (pp. 19-20), a kind of slaw made without mayonnaise, and "Kosher" Dill Pickles (pp. 20-21) and even Pickled Beets (p. 24). Each recipe comes with a recipe note full of memories of old New York and Arthur's own family. Ben Fink's photographs of dishes and products – even Dr. Brown's Cel-Ray – are sprinkled generously throughout the book. There are also helpful photos of how to stuff Hamantaschen (p. 239) or how to prepare Garlic and Paprika Rubbed Roast Chicken (p. 133). Read Jewish Home Cooking and you might find yourself making everything from bialys to gefilte fish from scratch – and better than you tasted before. These are well written recipes that will go a long way to improving the Passover table. Previous articles: Aromas of Aleppo: Michael J. Cohen Jewish Traditions Cookbook: Rosh Hashanah [Cookbook Reviews - complete] Technorati Tags: superchefblog, Juliette Rossant, super chef, celebrities, chefs, food, restaurants, cooking, branding, cuisine, blogging, food blogging, Passover --> back to Super Chef