Stephane Reynaud: Terrine

By JULIETTE ROSSANT How important are terrines to French food? Check out Daniel Boulud's After Hours. In one segment he makes a terrine of wild birds wrapped in pastry for a group of sophisticated New Orleans guests. When he serves the thin slices of terrine, there is a veritable "ooh" in the crowd. This is elegant, artful French food. Stephane Reynaud's second book – after last years stunning Pork & Sons)– celebrates the rustic idea of layering and enclosing ingredients in a terrine. Terrine (Phaidon 2008) explores dishes prepared in traditional glazed earthenware dish - from classic to his sophisticated interpretations. The table of contents is simple: Vegetables, Fish, Meat, Cheese, Desserts, and Index & Glossary. But the recipes are full of imagination – taking the definition of terrine to great heights and yet most of the recipes are not beyond a home kitchen. If you are expecting a bumper crop of zucchini this summer, then check out his Summer Terrine (pp. 18-9). The photo by Charlotte Lasceve (almost every recipe has a photo) reveals the strips of zucchini enclosed in a blanket of more vegetable flavored with aniseed and cumin. Stephane's Minestrone Terrine is a crown of asparagus that holds fava beans, baby peas, and pasta in a broth, all in gelatin. It is a glorious royal dish that celebrates spring vegetables. The meat chapter includes more familiar recipes like chicken Liver Terrine (p. 64) Rabbit Rillettes (p. 82) and a Country Style Terrine (p. 100). These are rich and wintry and perfect for giving for winter holiday presents. There are also at least seven recipes for foie gras. Some of the recipes might be difficult to make – unless you live on a pig farm – like Etienne's Pig Cheeks (p. 123) but Stephane includes an almost American-style Meat Loaf (p. 104) with ketchup and Tabasco, albeit cooked in a traditional enameled red terrine. Stephane rethinks traditional French desserts as terrines like his Tarte Tatin Terrine (p. 142) minus the crust, or Milk Chocolate Crepe Terrine (p. 146) with 20 layers of chocolate sauce. This is the way to end an important dinner party - impress your guest with a luscious, complex terrine. Previous articles: After Hours with Daniel Boulud FOOD FLICKS: After Hours with Daniel Stephane Reynaud: Pork & Sons [Cookbook Reviews - complete] Technorati Tags: superchefblog, Juliette Rossant, super chef, celebrities, chefs, food, restaurants, cooking, branding, cuisine, blogging, food blogging --> back to Super Chef