Zov: Recipes and Memories from the Heart

By JULIETTE ROSSANT Each of us who travels the globe and tastes what we think are classic examples of a peasant or sophisticated dish comes away with an idea of how that dish should be made correctly. What makes Zov: Recipes and Memories from the Heart (Zov 2005, reprinted 2008) such an interesting cookbook is that it offers new ways to use Middle Eastern ingredients alongside traditional recipes. Intertwined with the recipes are Zov Karmardian's memories about markets, food, and cooking. Zov is the chef/owner of Zov's Bistro in Tustin, California – not far from L.A. Zov's memories range from trips through Beirut in 1959 to a Nice market in 1998. The recipes roam the Mediterranean, but rely on the spices and basic recipes of the Armenian Middle Eastern kitchen. She uses of spices like sumac, Za'atar, the fragrant thyme, oregano and marjoram spice bend, and Aleppo pepper (see her Pantry Essentials on pp. 12-14). But there are also influences from the Asian pantry and California cuisine. Recipes are lightened and full of flavor. Middle Eastern food is abundant in its appetizers, salads and mezza, and Zov starts with four excellent and very traditional spreads – great for Spring lunches: Hummus, Walnut and Pomegranate Dip (p. 24), Fire-roasted Eggplant Dip (p. 26) and Yogurt Cheese Spread (p. 27). You may have only tasted za'atar on bread, but Zov coats chicken with it with excellent results. She uses Armenian ingredients like basturma (or pasturma) in Mixed Baby Greens with Air-Dried Beef and Sherry Vinaigrette (p. 54). By the end of the chapter Zov moves on to Mexican inspired Avocado-Lime Guacamole (p. 210). If you have had manti in Afghani or Turkish restaurants served with a garlicky yogurt sauce, then you'll find Zov's version quite different. Her Manti (p. 113) are small dumplings in a chicken broth and yogurt sauce. In the photo by Pornchai Mittongtare the dumplings are open revealing the meat stuffing inside. The photos of her Lahmajoune (p. 150) show small, thick flatbreads with a substantial meat and tomato topping, while lahmajoun or lahma ba'jin in Turkey, Saudi Arabia or the Gulf are usually thin and crisp with very little topping. Perhaps this is the Armenian version? In any case, piping hot out of the over, these are very tasty snacks. Previous articles: [Cookbook Reviews - complete] Technorati Tags: superchefblog, Juliette Rossant, super chef, celebrities, chefs, food, restaurants, cooking, branding, cuisine, blogging, food blogging --> back to Super Chef