660 Curries: Raghavan Iyer

By JULIETTE ROSSANT Raghavan Iyer's 660 Curries (Workman 2008) may look like yet another book with an emphasis on big rather than interesting. But that would be incorrect. 660 Curries is a cookbook that explores the multitude of regional cookery in India. Raghaven from the South, but his book takes a serious look at home cooking from all areas of India. The book is big because it encompasses so many different regional styles and introduces a wide range of spice blends and pastes. I define a curry as any dish that consists of meat, fish, poultry, legumes, vegetables, or fruits, simmered in a sauce, gravy, or other liquid that is redolent of spices and/or herbs. In my India, curry is never added–it just is! (p. 3) The book starts off with a photomontage by Ben Fink of the various kinds of curries from different regions, such as: Vibrant Curries of Punjabi, Kashmiri and Pakistani Curries to Coastal Curries of Tamilian, Sri Lankan and Keralite Curries. The photographs of dishes and scenes from the various regions – as well as grouping them together – help set the stage for the recipes in the book. But the book is actually organized on ingredients with chapters on poultry, game, & Egg Curries (p. 119), beef, Lamb & Pork Curries (p. 169) etc. The first chapter covers Spice Blends and Pastes (p. 11) that are used in all the recipes. Raghaven suggests getting a coffee grinder or spice grinder, mortar and pestle, and a food processor or mini chopper for the task of grinding and pulverizing spices. The recipes include sauces like Simmered Tomato Sauce with Chilies and Cardamom (p. 18) that includes plenty of chilies and cardamom added to bottled tomato sauce. He notes that it would be better to make your own tomato sauce, but if it means not making curries, then use bottled sauce. He includes a Madras Curry Powder (p. 24) used in a few recipes, but admits that no Indian household would have something called "curry powder". There is an Eastern Indian Sweet Scented Blend (p. 26) that includes only fresh ground cloves, cardamom and cinnamon stick. It is for use in curries from Calcutta on the Bay of Bengal. Throughout the book are plenty of tips, explanations, and suggestions for substitution. Raghaven is a culinary teacher and clearly this is a book he wants readers to use and learn from, rather than just browse. Not all the recipes call for the pastes and spice blends. The appetizer chapter, for example, is full of fritters, dumplings, and croquettes that do not use the blends – and others that do. The Spinach Fritters in a Yogurt-Chile Sauce uses Garlic Paste. The Coconut-Flavored Fritters with a Buttermilk-Pigeon Pea Broth (p. 66) calls for Sambhar Masala (p. 33). Lentil Dumplings in a Spicy Tamarind-Lentil Broth (pp. 75-76) call for fresh curry leaves, Thai chiles and plenty of other spices. This is a huge book to explore classic Indian curries and more creative, Western-influenced ones – plus lots of extra recipes on pickles, relishes, bread and rice. There is a helpful glossary and plenty of guidance from a brilliant teacher. Maybe big is better when it is full of so many possibilities. Previous articles: Modern Indian Cooking: Khanna and Nayak Suvir Saran Spins Indian Home Cooking Madhur Jaffrey: Our Lady of India, CBE Manju Malhis's Inida With Passion [Cookbook Reviews - complete] Technorati Tags: superchefblog, Juliette Rossant, super chef, celebrities, chefs, food, restaurants, cooking, branding, cuisine, blogging, food blogging --> back to Super Chef