Clarissa Dickson Wright: Comfort Food

By JULIETTE ROSSANT [Editor's Note: Super Chef presents a review of the British version of Clarissa's Comfort Food (Kyle Cathie Limited 2008) available through Amazon UK. It contains British measurements and some ingredients like teal and partridge that are often not easy to find in the US. However, an American version of the cookbook will be on sale soon.] Clarissa Dickson Wright is a singular woman. She is not only opinionated, but resolutely so. That's what is so fun about her cookbooks and her pronouncements. On Jamie Oliver in The Independent: "He is a brilliant cook," she says, "but unfortunately his restaurants are very lacklustre – I'm told. I don't know. I don't eat in them... I don't want to risk being poisoned." There is no fuss about what her newest book, Clarissa's Comfort Food is about: Please bear in mind that this is my comfort food; if there are dishes you think should be included then you will have to write them into the back of the book yourself! I have spent a lifetime with food, and at sixty my tastes are fairly established. Most chefs don't announce their likes and dislikes (carrots), though all of them have them. If you find that you like her tastes -- and they aren't the kind of typical Mac & Cheese comfort foods that Americans are familiar with -- then you'll find this book not only full of good recipes, but also plenty of wit. In fact, there is no Mac & Cheese recipe in the book, but lovely Spaghetti with Botargo (p. 53) and a Cauliflower Cheese (p. 126) – you won't miss the Mac at all. Clarissa is half of the British Celebrity Chef team, The Two Fat Ladies. The other lady was Jennifer Paterson, who passed away in 1999 in the middle of season four of their enormously entertaining TV series. Clarissa is feisty and not at all timid in preparing comfort foods: The trick with kippers is to cook them in such a way that the whole house doesn't reek. I put mine, tail up, in a jug of very, very hot water (not quote boiling) and leave them to stand for 5-10 minutes depending on size. I then flash them under the grill with a knob of butter (but this last is not strictly necessary). Alternatively, a friend of mine poaches them in equal parts of milk and water with a little butter for about 6 minutes. (p. 12) That is all there is to the recipe, but it evokes the smoky, moist taste of kippers that anyone who has spent time in the UK knows. Other recipes in the breakfast chapter include Devilled Kidneys (p. 14) that includes a wonderful recipe for devilled butter that can be used "with pheasant or partridge, chicken or what you will, as well as with kidneys". It combines butter, mustard Worcestershire sauce and anchovy essence with cayenne pepper. For the end-of-season tomato bounty, try Tomato Summer Pudding (p. 32), a recipe developed by Jennifer Patterson, which is essentially bread and tomato salad reconstructed. The photography by Lisa Linder makes it look enticing. Many of the recipes contain various forms of smoked fish, more common in Britain than in America, but worth searching out. Others refer to Clarissa's strong connection to the Far East. Military Pork Puffs (p. 38) consist of puff pastry wrapped around leftover roast pork: When I used to visit my grandmother in Singapore we would have these delicious savories made with leftover pork and the distinctive military pickle. Of course she admits that other pickles would work as well. She also ranges around the Mediterranean, offering a terrific Cretan Rabbit Pie (p. 112) – she admits here that she isn't sure that there are many rabbits on Crete. It's a fine rift on a Cretan dish, and it may encourage squeamish Americans to start eating their bunnies like Europeans do. So much personality comes out in Clarissa Dickson Wright's book that it seems a shame she will not be going on tour in the US. The UK's Telegraph reports: The 61-year-old chef, who lives in Edinburgh, said: "I've been asked about going and doing book tours over there but to be honest I don't think I could face it. I am interested in American politics...but I can't pretend to understand it. Sarah Palin comes across as completely absurd. I don't think I could go over there for any length of time. It would be unbearable for me, absolutely unbearable." Ms Dickson Wright, who trained as a lawyer and was the first woman to be called to the Bar, began her television career after being asked to make a cookery programme with friend Jennifer Paterson. No one could ever say she doesn't stand behind her opinions. Previous articles: [Cookbook Reviews - complete] Technorati Tags: superchefblog, Juliette Rossant, super chef, celebrities, chefs, food, restaurants, cooking, branding, cuisine, blogging, food blogging --> back to Super Chef