Bitchin Confidential: Write About Women Chefs

By JULIETTE ROSSANT Time Out New York published an article last week entitled "Bitchin' Confidential" by Rebecca Flint Marx. She reported on the lack of coverage of women chefs by the food press. The article says that there is a glass ceiling for women in restaurants and that the press has been contributing to the discrimination by not recognizing talented women chefs. Oddly the last quote in the article does not support Marx's argument: "I'm only interested in making my clients happy," says Paola Marracino, who has owned her Upper East Side restaurant, Paola's, since 1983. "I got my two stars [from the Times] ten years ago, and that was my affirmation that I was doing the right thing. The press may not be interested, but I just want to hear people say, 'I'm coming back with my friends.' I can't do that if I'm out going after press all the time." Male chefs – successful chefs – do go after the press all the time. Without the powerful food press to help bring in customers, it is very difficult for even the best chefs to survive. Super Chef has long focused on women chefs. This began with publication of the book Super Chef, which included a chapter on Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger. Numerous articles here in Super Chef Magazine have included special readers polls on selecting a Woman White House Executive Chef. Super Chef's aim has been to recognize the excellence of women chefs. Women have struggled to break into male-dominated kitchens, get access to financing for their own restaurants, and finally, get enough press coverage to ensure that their restaurants are patronized. Back in 2003, Mary Sue and Susan told Super Chef that when starting out they worked in a cramped kitchen: Even with the exposure to Los Angeles' wealthy patrons enjoyed at Ma Maison and then Spago, Wolfgang Puck had to scrape to raise money; Susan and Mary Sue had to scrape twice as hard. With the two of them almost always behind the stove, they had little front-of-the-house presence with which to lure potential investors. (p. 143) Innovations like open kitchens and chef's tables are exactly the kind of architectural developments that have allowed chefs to engage the press and the public without leaving their kitchens. This week in Europe, the food press is reacting to the increase (from 6 to 10 over one year) of Michelin starred women chefs in Great Britain and Ireland. The Telegraph lists the new additions: The starred restaurants with women head chefs last year were: The River Café in west London, run by Ruth Rogers and Rose Gray; the Old Vicarage in Sheffield, where Tessa Bramley is chef patronne; the Yorke Arms in Pateley Bridge, North Yorks, owned by Frances Atkins; Northcote in Langho, near Blackburn, Lancs, where Lisa Allen is head chef; Morston Hall, near Blakeney, Norfolk, where Samantha Wegg is one of three head chefs; and Gordon Ramsay’s eponymous restaurant in west London, where Clare Smyth is head chef. Strongly tipped to also win stars when this year’s guide is published on Wednesday are Emily Watkins at The Kingham Plough, Chipping Norton, Oxon, and the head chefs of three Mayfair restaurants: Hélène Darroze at the Connaught, Rachel Humphrey at >Le Gavroche, and Angela Hartnett at Murano, who told Stella magazine in August: “I want my first star by January.” Women chefs on both sides of the Atlantic are increasingly breaking the glass ceiling and joining the ranks of executive chefs and chef/owners. It is strange that at a time when the Food Network and food programs on other channels are promoting women, albeit women who are not necessarily trained chefs, the press is falling short recognizing the talents of women chefs. Super Chef will continue to publish articles about outstanding women chefs and calls on the press to increase coverage, not only in special issues about women chefs, but also in general coverage of chefs. Super Chef also calls on award-giving institutions like the James Beard Foundation, to increase their recognition of women chefs of distinction. Previous articles: Cris Comerford Stays in the White House New White House Chef in 2009? All Women Chefs James Beard Dinner James Beard Award: Women Chefs International Women's Day: Chefs Unite? Woman Chef Wins 3rd Michelin Star Mary Sue Miliken on Anne-Sphie Pic Sara Moulton on Anne-Sophie Pic Jody Adams on Anne-Sophie Pic Women Chef Bosses Allen Susser: 5 Fabulous Female Chefs Gordon Ramsay: Women Can't Cook James Beard Awards: Dearth of Women Chefs [White House Woman Chef - complete] Technorati Tags: superchefblog, Juliette Rossant, super chef, celebrities, chefs, food, restaurants, cooking, branding, cuisine, blogging, food blogging, cookbooks, cookbook reviews, women chefs, female chefs --> back to Super Chef