Andrew Carmellini: Urban Italian

By JULIETTE ROSSANT Andrew Carmellini writing in a section called "Measure, but don't be a slave" in Urban Italian (Bloomsbury 2009): There are, I think, two kinds of cooks, those who measure everything exactly, no matter hat, and those who, like Obi Wan Kenobi, "use the force" a little more – who improvise, taste, and put in a little of this and a little of that. (p. 34) Any chef who thinks of himself (and his readers) in the same breath as Obi Wan is Super Chef's kind of cool. That's not the only place films and film characters crop up. In the introduction about his life in the kitchen, Andrew (and his co-author and wife, Gwen Hyman) writes about going to the Culinary Institute of America: It's not like a Hollywood movie, where you go into culinary school and come out with a big knife and a hot job; it's more like a bunch of crazy home videos– the kind of stuff that comes out at the end f the night with old friends, when everyone's had a drink or three. (p. 2) His home videos include learning how to make proper lamb shank from Mario Cuomo's mother, and cooking for Italian models. The movies crop up in Andrew's recipes. How about Andrew's Short Ribs Braciole, a tender beefy dish topped with pine nuts, bread crumbs and cheese, perfect for cold February nights. One of the ingredients is "1 clove garlic, sliced Goodfellas thin". Y'a know whats he means? Urban Italian is full of Andrew's hard won mastery of Italian cuisine. The Antipasti recipes are full of glorious photographs by Quentin Bacon like Artichoke Fritto with Yogurt and Mint (p. 41-43) and Crispy Calamari Salad with Arugula, Fennel, and Lemon Sauce (p. 49-50). There are numerous photos accompanying Andrew's recipe for The Best Gnocchi (pp. 95-99). That's a lot of pages for a simple potato dumpling dish – but the recipe steps are clear and easy to follow. The gnocchi are terrific with the following recipe for Lamb Ragu (pp. 100-102), a rich, spicy ground lamb and vegetable stew that complements the light potato-y flavor of the gnocchi. Urban Italian is full of masterful recipes from a chef who really wants to communicate what has driven him to follow his passion for food. The recipes are for the home cook who buys high-quality ingredients and knows they will be even better following these directions. Previous articles: [Cookbook reviews - complete] Technorati Tags: superchefblog, Juliette Rossant, super chef, celebrities, chefs, food, restaurants, cooking, branding, cuisine, blogging, food blogging, cookbooks, cookbook reviews, Andrew Carmellini --> back to Cookbook Reviews --> back to Super Chef