Rachel Allen: Hunt for Food

Rachel Allen and pheasants

Is game hunting the new target for the foie gras opponents?

Consider the case of Irish chef, Ballymaloe Cookery School‘s Rachel Allen. She is under attack for posting a picture of game birds she had shot on Facebook. They accompany recipes for making game terrine. Here is her response:

This page is an information outlet for food-related topics only and I have always tried to include information relating to the recipes or events featured, both to promote them and contextualize them. The origin or sourcing of food has been a long-held interest and concern of mine and I have gone to great lengths in my current series to trace the provenance of food and respect it. No objection was raised to showing pigs being sourced for chorizo, or sheep for a curry dish, for example.

The Independent reports that she have received serious threats to herself and her family. This is the same kind of threat that has been made against chefs and restaurateurs who serve foie gras in their restaurants.

Rachel is far from the only chef who hunts and enjoys cooking game dinners. In the US, prominent chefs like Daniel Boulud, Robert Wiedmaier, Charlie Palmer and many others are enthusiastic hunters. They cook and eat what they shoot. Rachel’s response is a lesson in how to deal with fanatical animal rights supporters. Balancing responsible local sourcing of food with legal hunting is one way to deal with the encroachment of human population on nature.

Super Chef spoke to Chef Wiedmaier of Brasserie Beck and Marcel’s about the controversy.

Hunting is an ancient practice going on since prehistory. In a way, it preserves animals that do not have predators. If you don’t hunt them, they will be become susceptible to diseases. There are too many white tail deer with no predators except the occasional car. They have to be eaten in order to survive as a species – survival of the fittest.

Watching the armchair folk saying, how can you kill Bambi? Then suddenly Bambi is in the city or in the suburbs eating their rhododendron and flowers. Then they want to have every deer shot. Most people don’t understand, without hunters, there wouldn’t be a Bambi.

It is too early to say whether foie gras foes have moved their sites to game in the US, but that seems to be the case in the UK. With fox hunting banned, the next hurdle is all other hunting.

Robert Wiedmaier

About Juliette Rossant

Juliette Rossant is an American author, journalist, and poet. Following publication of her book Super Chef (2004), she began an online magazine... (more)