Le Perche: David Lambert Puts the New into “Choux”

Choux and macarons by David Lambert

[Editor's note: original article appeared in the Pays du Perche, "Le gout du Perche" issue]

David Lambert is a magician.

He used to bake the best baguette de Perche and some of the most ethereal croissant ever created in his bakery in the village of Bretoncelles (see my article on Le Perche in The New York Times Magazine).

Now he’s moved on to open a chocolate shop nearby in Nogent Le Rotrou.

From his toque, he’s pulled out wonderful round little cakes that are as light as balloons. Using both pâte à choux and pâte sablée, he creates a crispy, tender puffs. He fills the inside of the little choux with crème pâtissière, enriched with the freshest of eggs and then tops the crème with chocolate, caramel, or fruit such as strawberry, blackcurrant or passion fruit. There are eight flavors — all just a couple of crunchy, creamy bites.

He only makes them on Saturdays.

So, pick a box up after shopping at the farmer’s market in Nogent Le Rotro:

David Lambert Chocolatier
10 Place Saint-Pol
28400 Nogent-le-Rotrou, Eure-et-Loir
France
+33 (2) 37-49-86-81
+33 (9) 66-85-78-29
(On request, he will pile them up into a spiral pyramid.)

About Colette Rossant

Colette Rossant has written seven cookbooks, translated three French cookbooks, and has penned three memoirs... (more)